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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.